SPLASH NOTES! Notes under the water

Lucky Hermits

2010-12-11T22:11:00.001+08:00

Hermit crabs are among the more unusual pets, although they do make interesting, easy care companions. They are active and curious, and their unique characteristics and low maintenance requirements make them good pets.

Hermit crabs are not "true crabs." Hermit crabs are decapod crustaceans of the superfamily Paguroide. Hermit crabs are quite commonly seen in the intertidal zone: for example, in tide pools.

Of the approximately 15 terrestrial species in the world, the following are commonly kept as pets: Caribbean hermit crab (Coenobita clypeatus), Australian land hermit crab (Coenobita variabilis), and the Ecuadorian hermit crab (Coenobita compressus). Other species such as Coenobita brevimanus, Coenobita rugosus, Coenobita perlatus or Coenobita cavipes are less common but growing in availability and popularity as pets.

Hermit crabs were once seen as a "throwaway pet" that would live only a few months, but species such as Coenobita clypeatus have a 23 year lifespan if properly treated,[12] and some have lived longer than 32 years.

Land hermit crabs are relatively easy to find (especially here in the Philippines…you can buy them near elementary schools…a lot of peddler sells them to kids for a peso to 5 pesos, depending on size) but you have to be a little choosey. Check to make sure that all the legs are present (3 pairs of walking legs), the shell covering the head and thorax isn't damaged, there are no parasites/small bugs present, and that the crab is lively. Larger crabs may be hardier, and if you already have a crab then it is important to match sizes pretty closely otherwise fighting may occur.

Basic Care:

Hermit crabs are tropical animals and need warm temperatures. Correct temperature and humidity is essential for their health and wellbeing. 70-85°F is the proper temperature range. Heat damage is irreversible, and temperatures that are too low slow down a crab's metabolism. An improper environment can cause your crab to become lethargic and inactive, lose limbs and ultimately, die.

The proper home for your crabs should be one that holds in humidity, but still lets in fresh air. A fish tank usually does nicely. Hermit crabs breathe through gills, so the air needs to be moist or they will suffocate. With warmth and a solid lid on the tank, the water dish should be enough to create humidity. It is also possible to put a sea sponge in a dish of filtered water for extra humidity.

Your substrate should be at least 2-3 times the height of your largest crab, and should be a material the crabs can easily dig and build caves in to relieve stress, hide, and molt.

Please do not disturb your crab during molting. He will need to be alone and if he is bothered, the stress could kill him. Once in a while, a crab's exoskeleton gets a little tight, and like a snake shedding its skin, a crab will shed its exoskeleton and grow a little bit. Don't take the exoskeleton away from the crab! He will need to eat it in order to harden his new exo. This is where the shells come in. When they grow, they need bigger shells. It is important to keep plenty of extra hermit crab shells similar to your crabs' sizes in the tank at all times. Once a month or so, rotate a few undisturbed shells out with different styles of shells.

NEVER buy painted shells! Although companies may claim the paint is safe, the paint can chip off, and if the crabs eat it, it can be toxic. See the Warnings for information on what kinds of shells to a avoid.

In the wild, hermit crabs are omnivores, which mean they eat plants as well as meat. Hermit crabs are also scavengers by nature and will eat almost anything. Beware of commercial food, as it has many preservatives that may harm your little hermit.

Fresh water is needed for drinking. Use filtered water or rainwater so there is no chlorine in it. A larger dish of salt water can be provided for the hermit crabs to get into. Do not use table salt. Saltwater can be found in an aquarium shop that sells saltwater fish.

Shallow, strong and easy to clean dishes are used for food and water containers, and a larger one for saltwater.

Interested of owning a hermit crab? Just drop by on the Lucky Hermits booth on the basement floor of SM Mega Mall in EDSA (near Comic Quest and the Food Court). There are hermit crabs in all shape and sizes. Hey! They can also be seen in the following places:

Robinsons Ermita

- near National Bookstore and Figaro

SM North EDSA

- in front of the Sky Garden entrance

Fresh-water Aquarium Plants

2009-11-26T13:53:00.008+08:00

From fishlore.com

Adding aquarium plants to your aquarium can be a good idea because these plants use nitrates which may be troublesome to your tropical fish if your nitrate levels are high enough. Live plants do more than that though, they simply look nicer than their plastic counterparts.

Some are easier to take care of than others. The more hardy aquarium plants include the Java Fern, Hygrophila polysperma and Vallisneria spiralis.

You will need to check out a couple of things before embarking on your live plant adventure.

Water Parameters
Plants are just like your tropical fish when it comes to water parameters. Different aquarium plants require different water conditions. Be sure to find out the required water conditions for the plants you want. You need to know things like ph, hardness levels and lighting levels for each plant.

Good Substrate
You will need to have a good substrate in order for your plants to survive. There are clay planters you can get to place your plants in or you can even place some plants directly into the gravel. If you place your plants directly into the gravel you will need to use an iron supplement for your aquarium water since these plants won't be getting the nutrients they need from the iron fortified clay.

Good Lighting
Different aquarium plants require different levels of aquarium lighting, usually measured in watts per gallon. If you want your plants to thrive you must pay attention to this measurement in order for photosynthesis to take place. CO2 is also required for photosynthesis. CO2 can come from the fish respiration process going on in your tank. However, if you have a heavily planted tank, you may want to get a CO2 injector for your aquarium because you won't be getting enough CO2 from your fish.

Fish Compatibility
Certain fish species will make aquarium plant keeping a nightmare. For instance, Silver Dollars really enjoy nibbling on live plants. Likewise, Oscars and Goldfish will enjoy uprooting any aquarium plants you place in the tank. If you already have fish, do some research on your particular species before embarking on your live plant journey.

Save yourself some money and dead plants by researching the plants you want to get before buying them so that you can determine their exact needs and whether or not you can meet those needs.

Here's some common plants for your fresh-water aquarium:

Amazon Sword Plant

Grows better in softer water than hard water. Optimal growth may not occur if the water is too hard. Plant in a loose substrate and supplement with an iron fertilizer.

Vallisneria spiralis

A good plant for the beginner because of its ability to handle a wide range of water parameters. This plant looks good planted in the back or along the sides of aquariums.

Cabomba

Cabomba does best when grown in nuetral water under moderate lighting. Provide at least 2 watts per gallon of full spectrum (5000-7000K) lighting. Water temperature between 72°-82°F, an alkalinity of 3-8 dKH and a pH of 6.5-7.5 is ideal for proper growth. These plants do not tolerate frequent trimming and transplanting. Leaves dropping from the plant are usually a sign of poor water conditions or CO2 deficiency.

Cryptocoryne

Cryptocoryne, also known as Wendt's Cryptocoryne requires a substrate that is fertilized with an iron-rich fertilizer. Regular pruning and thinning will keep it looking its best. Cryptocoryne requires stable water conditions to prevent rotting of the stems and leaves. Provide at least 2 watts per gallon using full spectrum bulbs (5000-7000K). Water temperature should be between 75° and 82°F, with a dKH of 3-8 and a pH of 6.5 to 7.5.

Corkscrew ( Vallisneria americana)

Vallisneria americana also called Corkscrew needs a moderate amount of light in the range of 2 to 3 watts per gallon, using full spectrum (5000-7000K) bulbs.

Java Fern

Java Ferns will do well if planted in moderate light as well as in a shaded area. It is amphibious, meaning that it will grow either partially or fully submersed. Provide at least 2 watts per gallon of light supplied by full spectrum (5000-7000K) bulbs.

Native Waters of Freshwater Aquarium Fish

2008-01-24T08:56:00.000+08:00

Fresh waters are aquatic habitats of great diversity and may be divided into the following groups: standing or still waters (lakes, pools, swamps, wetlands) and flowing waters (springs, streams, rivers). Flowing waters are divided into white waters (rapids) and calm waters.

Through freshwater habitats are found in all climatic zones of the earth the overwhelming majority of fish kept in aquarium are from the tropics and subtropics.

Fish Disease

2007-11-08T09:33:00.000+08:00

Bacteriosis Pinnerum (Fin Rot)

Symptoms:

Fin rot begins with a slight discoloration of the edges of the fins, making an early detection difficult. As the disease progresses, the fins begin to fray. The deterioration continues, resulting in only remains of the fins, once the disease is in it's terminal stage.

Cause:

Several bacteria cause Fin Rot, namely "Pseudomonas Flourescens", "Aeromonas Sp". and "Haemophilus Piscium".

Treatment:

Fin Rot is considered difficult to treat. It is recommended to consult with your local fish store about the correct diagnosis as well as a possible treatment.

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Ich AKA White Spot

Ick is a protozoan parasite (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis), and is extremely contagious. The name translates to "fish louse with many children", a title that fits well, as each parasite may produce over a thousand offspring. Although the disease is the equivalent of a skin infection, it can easily be fatal to a fish stressed by poor diet or habitat.

Symptoms:
1. Small white spots resembling sand
2. Fish scratch against rocks and gravel
3. In advanced stages fish become lethargic
4. Redness or bloody streaks in advanced stages

Infected fish are covered to various degrees with small white spots. Severe infestations are easy to spot, but small occurrences often go unnoticed. However, ich won't remain unnoticed for long. After approximately one week of parasitism, mature trophozoites leave their host, settle to a substrate and secrete a cyst. The encysted cell, called a tomont, undergoes rapid division over approximately twenty-four hours to produce 600-1000 daughter cells called tomites. Once these reach maturity, they exit the cyst and develop into a theront stage, which is highly mobile. Theronts then infect new fish, digging their way into exposed parts, under the scales, or more commonly into its gill plate. The entire life-cycle takes about seven to ten days to complete.

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Dropsy

Dropsy is actually a "symptom" and not a disease in itself. This disease is characterised by a swollen or hollow abdomen (Ascites). A concentration of fluid in the body tissues and cavities causes the fish's abdomen to become swollen and appear bloated. Swollen areas may exhibit a 'pine-cone' appearance caused by the fishes scales sticking out. When a fish has an advanced case of dropsy, its scales will appear to stick off of their body like an opened up pinecone, as shown above.

CAUSES:
It is actually undetermined as to what brings on this illness. Once thought to strictly be the result of an internal bacterial infection, this is not necessarily the case. It could be the result of a number of things ranging from an internal bacterial, viral, or fungal infection, internal parasites, or even cancerous tumors.

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Hole in the head disease (HITH) also known as Freshwater Head and Lateral Line Erosion (FHLLE).

Oscars, as well as other large cichlids, are commonly afflicted by hole in the head disease.

Symptoms: The symptoms are easily recognizable . First, the fish will develop small, grey, pin-hole abrasions around the eyes and head. These lesions will grow and if not treated, will eventually kill the fish.

It is believed that Hexamita, a protozoa, causes this disease. However, individual studies have shown that improvement in nutrition will help symptoms most effectively. Malnutrition seems to be the leading cause and the Hexamita, a secondary infection. Some aquarists blame poor water conditions as the cause of most fish problems. This fact emphasizes the importance of a good filter system, regular water changes and tank maintenance.

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Velvet disease (AKA Rust, Gold Dust Disease, Oödinium)

This is cause by Oödinium pilularis, a parasitic skin flagellate.

In freshwater fish Velvet is caused by either Oödinium pilularis or Oödinium limneticum. In marine fish Oödinium ocellatum causes the dreaded Coral Fish disease. All three species have symptoms and lifecycles similar to the well known parasite, Ich.

The parasite is single-celled and enters the slime coating of a host fish in its motile juvenile stage where it matures. The mature parasites break through the slime layer and drop to the bottom of the aquarium and attach themselves to solid surfaces. Here they form a cyst, which develops into numerous new juvenile individuals known as tomites.

Velvet is highly contageous and can prove fatal to fish. It is therefore important to treat as early as possible. The infected fish usually swims around scratching at things in the tank very rapidly and usually has its fins very close to its body.

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Anchor Worm (Lernea Elegans)

A very visible parasite, they can be seen as a 20mm long, 1-2mm wide clinging to the fish's body. They can be brought in on a newly arriving fish, that hasn't been quarantined, or even as an egg on plant. An anchor worm will attach to the body of the fish. Flashing and scratching when the anchor worm is still in the larvae stage, since the larvae will attach to the fishes body with the same menace then the adult.

The Anchor worm's life-cycle begins with larvae hatching from eggs in the water. The larvae is free swimming until it finds a suitable host where upon it attaches itself to the gills. Here, the larvae mature and breed after which the males stop becoming parasitic and leave the fish. It is the females that reattach themselves to the host and develop into the worm-like parasites which can be seen clinging to the fish's body.

It is in the spring when the females lay their eggs after which they either die or produce subsequent broods. As the females die, they leave openings on the host's skin which often allows a secondary fatal infection to enter.

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Well always remember:

SALT BATHS are effective old remedies for many fish diseases, including Ich. Add one tablespoon of common salt (sodium chloride) to a gallon of water at the same temperature as the aquarium, place the affected fish in this for five minutes; remove if the fish shows stress. Use only common salt and NOT iodised salt.

Stronger salt solutions at four tablespoons of common salt per gallon of water may be used as a swab or dip-bath. Do not place the fish entirely in this solution strength, but rather wrap the fish in a clean, moist cloth and dab the affected areas with the solution.

Adding one teaspoon of salt to a gallon of aquarium water makes a bath in which the fish can be kept for longer periods- watch for stress and remove to fresh water of the same temperature, if stress occurs. The addition of salt to the aquarium water at the rate of one teaspoon per gallon of water is also a useful preventative measure against Ich and Oodinium. Even concentrations of salt as low as 500 mg/L (0.05% solution) are effective controls for Ich in circulating systems. There is no harm to bacteria in biological filters at that low concentration of salt .

EPSOM SALTS can be used to treat constipation in fish. From the tank, remove half the water to a clean container to which is added epsom salts (magnesium sulphate) at the rate of 1 tablespoon per gallon (this keeps water temperature constant for the initial part of the bath. Swim the fish in this solution for 1/4 to 1/2 hour or until stress shows or faeces are released. Top the water up in the fish's usual container with dechloraminated water and return the fish to it. Change the water in about an hour to remove any faeces and residual salts. Dispose of the epsom salts solution by pouring it around your citrus trees or onto the garden beds, as it is a good for treating magnesium deficiencies in soils.

MALACHITE GREEN is commonly used to treat Ich and other protozoan infections in ornamental fishes (not in food fishes and scale less fishes) and is very effective at the application rate of 0.05 to 0.10 mg/L in an indefinite bath. Malachite green combined with Formalin is also effective (0.2 mg/L malachite green + 15 mg/L Formalin) and is present as such in some remedies on the market. HOWEVER, malachite green is a dangerous carcinogen and causes mutations. Pregnant women ought not be exposed to it or handle it. Methylene Blue is safer to use and just as effective in controlling Ich.

METHYLENE BLUE is a heterocyclic aromatic chemical compound that has many uses in a range of different fields, such as biology or chemistry. At room temperature it appears as a solid, odourless, dark green powder, that yields a blue solution when dissolved in water. Methylene blue is used in aquaculture and by tropical fish hobbyists as a treatment for fungal infections. It can also be effective in treating fish infected with ich, the parasitic protozoa Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. It is sold as "White Spot Cure" or "Fungus Cure". It stains plastic and fingers blue but is safe to use if directions on the label are followed.

But the best treatment is making sure that you have a clean and healthy aquarium for your fish. Insure good water quality and temperature parameters to prevent animals from getting stressed. And ask a veteran aquartist or your vet when using chemicals to treat your fish.

Remember, an once of prevention is better than a pound of cure.

Until next time.

Caring for Nemo

2007-06-24T16:25:00.000+08:00

"Are you a clown fish? Tell us a joke!"

Clownfish
Also commonly named Anemonefish, Clownfish are members of the Amphiprioninae subfamily classifed in the Pomacentridae or Damselfish family.

There are currently 27 species, of which one is in the genus Premnas and the rest are in the genus Amphiprion.

Minimum Tank Length/Size

A minimum 20 gallon aquarium is recommended. It is recommend at least a 40 gallon tank (saltwater fish require at least 10 gallons per fish).

Tank Envirorment

It is important to maintain the temperature of your tank between 24-30°C. During summer keep your tank in a nice cool part of your home that receives little or no sunlight. Please purchase the best filtration system you can afford....as with any saltwater aquarium, filtration is very important! Also, don't forget a good skimmer.

pH levels should be between 8.2 and 8.6 and the temperature of the water should be between 80 and 84 degrees.

Feeding

Feed all kinds of live, frozen, and flake foods. Best to feed small amounts several times a day. In a reef situation they don't really need to be fed very often at all.

Temperament

Like all damselfish, they can be territorial and aggressive, especially as they get older.

Changing the water
The water in your tank will evaporate over time. It is important that you keep the water level constant by topping your tank up with freshwater. The reason you top up with freshwater and not saltwater is because when water evaporates from your tank the salinity rises. If you topped up with salt then the salinity of your tank would increase and your fish could become stressed and may even die. In addition to topping up your tank regularly with freshwater you must change half the water every month to maintain good water quality.

Step 1: Mix the required amount of artificial marine salt for your aquarium or fish tank with fresh water in a bucket (32 grams of salt per liter of freshwater).
Step 2: Let the water mix for one hour.

Step 3: Siphon half the tank water into a bucket. If required clean the tank items in freshwater, including gravel. Add your new saltwater to tank.

Q. Can clownfish live without an anemone?
A. In their natural environment clownfish use their anemone as a defence mechanism against predators. In your tank, there are no predators. Anemones are very sensitive animals and can be difficult to keep. Large numbers of anemones are also removed from the wild and we therefore choose not to sell them in our tanks in an effort to reduce their wild-collection. It is, however, a good idea to give your clownfish somewhere to hide to keep them happy and there are some excellent ornaments and fake anemones available for purchase.

Give the credit where it is due

2007-04-27T13:48:00.000+08:00

If you look at those reef tanks from You Tube in my last post, I would like to give the credit to Steve from South Shore, MA, USA. I think he owns the 125 reef tank! (That's a big tank Steve!)

So kudos for Steve for giving us a privilage to see his beautiful reef tank.

Here are some reef tanks to inspire you

2006-11-07T12:44:00.002+08:00

Ok guys and gals! here are some reef tanks to inspire you.

Happy Fish Keeping!

Notice the use of the Protein Skimmers? and the varieties of salt-water fish? Wow! Isn't it heaven eh?

Filtration 101 (Part 1)

2005-11-28T18:17:00.000+08:00

Filtration 101: What are the different kinds of filter in the Philippine market today?

When the world came crashing down

2005-07-07T20:34:00.000+08:00

I have this uncle na masyadong ingetero (envious). One day, I purchased a 35-gallon tank para sa aking mga live-bearers. Palibhasa, super ingit, he also purchased a tank to impress me. He purchased a 75-gallon tank, complete with decorations, equiptments and all the stuffs, so naturally, it's more that a 75 gallow dead weight.

Now the problem is that he has no stand so he put the aquarium on a monobloc table.That morning....well just imagine what will you do if your living room is flooded with 75 gallons of water!

The moral of the story, Don't be envious...hehehe...and.....
when purchasing an aquarium, always considered the following factors:

1.) Be ready with a stand, especially on large tanks!
Just imagine all those weight on a non-strudy table! WOW! Nag-papakamatay ka na ba Tol?
When looking for a stand, see to it that it has an even surface. Also check the syrophore sheet. An uneven stand will cause the aquarium to crack.

2.) Also check your time and budget.
Large tanks are not easy to clean and will need large filtrations. In large tanks, I use canisters or over hanging filters compare to UGF (Undergravel Filter), deeper sand is very nasty! Canister filters are made to filter large tanks and has a very fast water turn-out.Unfortunately, canisters and it's mediums are very expensive.Hanging filters (like Dyna) is good for medium-size tanks (25 to 35 gallons). pero mahal pa rin.and one last thing guys, consider your house space. It's hard to sleep inside an aquarium, hehehe.

So, I hope you consider the following tips.
So bili ka na ng aquarium and enjoy the sceneries.

Have a nice day.

What is a biotope aquarium?

2005-07-07T20:16:00.000+08:00

A biotope aquaria is an aquarium that is set-up to simulate a natural habitat. The fish, plants, water chemistry, and furnishings are similar to those that can be found in a specific natural setting.

Always check compatibility! Some species from a particular habitat are not suitable tankmates. For example, the Peacock Bass will eat small tetras since they are their natural food in the wild.

The biotope aquarium can be adpated by adding species from disparate areas that have similar water requirements. ( Picture is an example of a Angel Fish natural set-up from http://fish.mongabay.com/ ).A biotope aquaria is an aquarium that contains the plants and fish of a particular geographic location. The advantage of such a set-up is that you are creating a more natural habitat.

Siamese Fighting Fish Care

2005-07-07T20:06:00.000+08:00

Here's how to keep your Siamese fighting fish (betta splendens) healthy.

1. Appropriate home. This item includes a 1.5 gallon bowl.
Remember, they can even live in a cup filled with water since Bettas can live without airators.

2. Only ONE betta per bowl! They're called "fighting fish" for a reason. They are highly territorial animals and will react violently if two are placed in the same container.

Change the water in the bowl when it starts to look cloudy, about once a week. Let the water age at least 24 hours, to release some of the chemicals. After transfering the betta to a container (with either the old water or the water you're going to use) clean the bowl with mild soap, and rinse thoroughly. Also rinse any decorations (rocks, shells, plastic plants, etc.) before filling the bowl with the aged water, and releasing your Siamese fighting fish.

Recommended Diet. BettaMin™ Floating Flake Food and Delecta™ Freeze Dried Blood Worms both made by Tetra™ and available in most pet stores and Wal-Mart Stores. We also feed the fish in our fish bowls a few live Black Worms three days a week and occasionally some live or frozen brine shrimp. A little bit of live food is very good, but too much seems to cause problems.